Hello!
We're staying in Railey, Thailand right now (see bottom of this post) but we've taken a day trip to the mainland where the internet is cheap and fast, so here's what we've been up to for the last few weeks.
Jaipur, Rajasthan
We spent 6 days in Jaipur, and stayed with the Kasliwals who are old family friends of Shawn's. They opened their home to us, and we felt like part of the family. It was so nice to feel at home, particularly when Elisabeth had stomach trouble. Dr. Kasliwal was on hand to make bedside visits! Staying with a family gives you so much more insight into day to day life. We learned about religion, history, culture, politics, business, and home life. Never ones to let a minute go to waste, the Kasliwals also run a business that designs and manufactures furniture and homeware. Check it out at: http://www.akfdstudio.com/
Pictured are Dr. Kasliwal, Mrs. Kasliwal, and their daughter-in-law, Geetanjali. Their son Ayush was travelling on business and their two adorable granddaughters were already in bed when this was taken.
It's wedding season in Jaipur. There are ceremonies, receptions, and parties happening at all hours all over the city. The Kasliwals often had a few weddings to attend each day, and we were invited to tag along for a couple. Given that backpacker clothing was obviously unsuitable, Geetanjali kindly set us up with something more appropriate.
Left to right: Looking down from the Amer Fort outside of Jaipur. Jantar Mantar, a huge celestial observatory with many contraptions that track the movements of stars and planets. A concert of Indian classical music in Jaipur's Central Park.
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
Jaisalmer is a small desert fort town in the west of Rajasthan, about 90 kilometers from the border with Pakistan.
No trip to Jaisalmer is complete without trekking into the desert on a camel and spending the night under the stars. Our caravan consisted of 2 guides (real desert men that walked much of the way barefoot on the hot sands and rock) an Israeli-Brit couple, and ourselves. The guides made camp by the bushes but like stupid tourists we insisted on sleeping out on the sand dunes. The winds pick up quite a bit during the night, making it very cold... and sandy. Not the best night's sleep but the stars were spectacular.
At right are Ali and Raman, our camel drivers. Also at right is Kahandaliyanage of Arabia.
While getting lost in the alleys of the fort, Bobby called us into her beauty parlor to try henna. Pictured above is a design that Jaisalmer is known for consisting of a desert flower on the palm for luck, a peacock up the wrist for love and sun rays on the fingers for wealth.
Bobby talked at length about her experience as a female business owner and about life for women in rural Rajasthan. Women struggle with many equity issues that we take for granted in Canada.
I'm reading a great book on this topic in case you are interested: May You Be the Mother of a Hundred Sons: A Journey Among the Women of India by Elisabeth Bumiller.
Bobby's family runs a women's co-operative that makes and sells typical Rajasthani patchwork tapestry. Pictured on the right is her father, Mr. Vyas, a retired lawyer that now runs the co-op store called "Bellissima".
We met another shopkeeper who designs his own tapestries. Shankar (left) shared the stories that the tapestries tell. The patches come from things like dowry bags, wedding dresses, maharaja dresses and opium bags (all handmade) which he buys from the surrounding villages. The more valuable pieces are those made of opium bags (bottom left) some of which are quite old and rich with gold thread. Needless to say, Shankar is also a good salesman as we've shipped a couple of tapestries home.
Paradox: Why are our clothes so loose even though we've been eating so much? Not to worry - the tailor around the corner took in three pants and a shirt in 30 minutes for $3 (including two cups of chai which we sipped while watching them work).
Jaisalmer is full of colours. Centered above are turbans pre-wrapped for your convenience. Above right is a Jain temple.
Right: Typical market: women, produce, cows.
We rented a scooter one day and drove out 20km into the desert to the abandoned city Khuldera (don't worry - empty highways, very safe). Legend has it that long ago 10,000 people packed their things and disappeared overnight when a tyranical maharaja decreed his entitlement to all the town's women.
New Delhi
We spent two brief, harried days in Delhi, mostly running a million small errands. Delhi is busy and polluted, and we were happy to leave it behind. This marked the end of 4 weeks in India, in which we managed to see but a tiny fraction of this massive country.
Left: The $2 packing service in New Delhi's post office gets you a handsewn parcel wrapping. Try getting that at FedEx!
Right: Snakecharmers performing in Connaught Place park. No snakes to be found.
Railey, Thailand
We arrived in Railey four days ago. This area is a climbing mecca and we will spend the next two weeks doing just that. The natural beauty is astounding. We have to catch a boat home, so for now, just have a look. More details to follow in a couple of weeks...
Ciao! sk & ev
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