Friday, March 30, 2007

Railay to Bangkok, Thailand

Hello everyone!

 Executive Summary:

- Spent the last month rock climbing in Railay, Thailand.

- Joined by a third traveller - Elisabeth's father, Aldo.

- Left Railay for Bangkok, where we have been for a week.

- Leaving tomorrow for the towns of Mae Sot and Umphang (8 hours of bus fun).

 

Rock Climbing in Railay Continued

 

A month spent rock climbing may not seem like everyone's cup of tea.  It probably was not even mine at the start. However, I was won over by the challenge each route presented and the reward at the top.  At left, I had met another climber on a nearby route who was able to take this picture.  This rock face is halfway up the cliff, reached by a short and steep hike through the jungle.  The results are even higher views from the top!  Each climb this month gave incredible views over the sea and the surrounding rock.  The following were some of our favorites:

  

 

Just to give you an idea of how we spent our time on a typical day: 

Morning walk out to a climbing area at the end of Phra-Nang beach.  Storm rolls in (left) while Shawn is leading.  The heavy rain comes so suddenly and heavily that there is little point to relocate.  Luckily, because the rock is overhung, both climber and belayer stay dry while the jungle soaks.  Taking the camera up for some dramatic views of the storm, I can take a picture of my sleepy belayer. (right)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the storm passes, we head down to the beach for a quick bite from one of the lunch boats. (If you zoom in, you'll see the white menu off the bow of the boat)  The tides, which can rise or fall as much as 2.5 metres, throw in some surprises as access to different climbing areas often depends on

them.  After lunch, the sea was low enough to walk over to Happy Island and climb there.  We have learned our lesson to pay attention to the tides as wading back holding your gear over your head, although adventurous, is not the most convenient.  The route we selected is to the left - can you find Shawn?

 

 

The start of the this route was a little more challenging than expected, but after many tries and finally using Shawn as a ladder, I was boosted past the beginning and continued to the finish.  Here's a shot from the top, you can see Shawn at the bottom:

We walked back as it was getting dark, much in need of a cold shower (30+ degrees everyday) and a hearty dinner.

 

As we cannot climb every day, we did take a few rest days in which we explored the nearby towns and went on a snorkelling trip.  It was like swimming in an aquarium!!  Unfortunately we don't have any pictures of that!

 

A visitor!

 

My father, Aldo, joined us in Railay on March 20th and will be travelling with us for 3 weeks!   We are both really enjoying having him here climbing and spending time with us.  It helps us feel less far from home.  No time for jet lag, he got right into the swing of things.  At left is my father on the rock!

 

Below is our instructor and friend Cho.  Cho works for King Climbers, one of the climbing schools in Railay.  He miraculously guided me past my fear of leading.  We enjoyed climbing with him during and after the course we took. 

 

 

 

 

 Below is another friend that I met outside our bungalow one morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In our new climbing team of 3, we now had a photographer!

Here we are climbing one of our favorite routes called "Monkeys Gone to Heaven".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bangkok

As we were leaving Railay, we both came down with bad colds.  In a bid to kick it as quickly as possible, we've taken it pretty easy for the last few days.  Aldo has made a brief side-trip to Angkor Wat in Cambodia while we recover.  We couldn't ask for a better place to be sick.  Bangkok is truly a world class city.  Should we need it, excellent doctors staff a number of nearby hospitals, and top quality Western cold remedies are readily available from such household names as Starbucks and Baskin Robbins.

Road traffic in Bangkok is legendary, but between canal and river ferries, the new skytrain, and the new subway system, we've gotten around town pretty painlessly. 

We've spent some time walking around the big shopping malls, since the air conditioning is gentler on our sick lungs than the hot, humid, often diesel-choked air of the busy streets.  Bangkok's rich and famous shop at the Siam Paragon.  Never before have we seen a mall like this one.  It is lined with haute couture boutiques, and also contains dealerships for Lamborghini, Ferrari, Bentley, Maserati, Aston Martin, and for the poor, BMW.

 

Monestary of the Emerald Buddha

 Yesterday we visited the Monestary of the Emerald Buddha, the holiest site in Thailand.  It contains the country's most revered Buddha image - a 2.5 foot tall statue of Buddha in a seated position, carved out of jade.  The complex is quite large, containing many buildings covered in ornate carving, murals, and goldleaf.  At left is a giant demon warrior guarding the temple from evil spirits.  At right are a few of the monestary buildings.

 

Below are some pictures of a group of young monks that were on a field trip. 

 

 

We spent an afternoon walking through some of the markets that bustle with activity day and night along narrow side streets all over the city.  Below are some of the happenings:  Twins eating ice cream and Trade Envoy Vesnaver negotiating a fair price for an apple.

 

 

 

Tomorrow we leave by bus bound for Mae Sot (a small town on the Burmese border), and then on to an even smaller town called Umphang where we'll likely do a 3 day trek into the jungle.

 

That's all for now!

sk & ev

 



Sunday, March 4, 2007

From Rajasthan to Railey

Hello!

We're staying in Railey, Thailand right now (see bottom of this post) but we've taken a day trip to the mainland where the internet is cheap and fast, so here's what we've been up to for the last few weeks.

 

Jaipur, Rajasthan

We spent 6 days in Jaipur, and stayed with the Kasliwals who are old family friends of Shawn's.  They opened their home to us, and we felt like part of the family.  It was so nice to feel at home, particularly when Elisabeth had stomach trouble.  Dr. Kasliwal was on hand to make bedside visits!  Staying with a family gives you so much more insight into day to day life.  We learned about religion, history, culture, politics, business, and home life.  Never ones to let a minute go to waste, the Kasliwals also run a business that designs and manufactures furniture and homeware.  Check it out at: http://www.akfdstudio.com/

Pictured are Dr. Kasliwal, Mrs. Kasliwal, and their daughter-in-law, Geetanjali.  Their son Ayush was travelling on business and their two adorable granddaughters were already in bed when this was taken.

 

It's wedding season in Jaipur.  There are ceremonies, receptions, and parties happening at all hours all over the city.  The Kasliwals often had a few weddings to attend each day, and we were invited to tag along for a couple.  Given that backpacker clothing was obviously unsuitable, Geetanjali kindly set us up with something more appropriate.

 

 

 

 

 

From Amer FortObservatoryConcert in the park

Left to right:  Looking down from the Amer Fort outside of Jaipur.  Jantar Mantar, a huge celestial observatory with many contraptions that track the movements of stars and planets.  A concert of Indian classical music in Jaipur's Central Park.

 

Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

Jaisalmer is a small desert fort town in the west of Rajasthan, about 90 kilometers from the border with Pakistan.

Jaisalmer by nightFrom the fort

Camel drivers: Salim and Salman
Kahandaliyanage of Arabia

 

Camel caravan
Smiling Babu

No trip to Jaisalmer is complete without trekking into the desert on a camel and spending the night under the stars.  Our caravan consisted of 2 guides (real desert men that walked much of the way barefoot on the hot sands and rock) an Israeli-Brit couple, and ourselves.  The guides made camp by the bushes but like stupid tourists we insisted on sleeping out on the sand dunes. The winds pick up quite a bit during the night, making it very cold... and sandy.  Not the best night's sleep but the stars were spectacular.

At right are Ali and Raman, our camel drivers.  Also at right is Kahandaliyanage of Arabia.

 

 

 




While getting lost in the alleys of the fort, Bobby called us into her beauty parlor to try henna.  Pictured above is a design that Jaisalmer is known for consisting of a desert flower on the palm for luck, a peacock up the wrist for love and sun rays on the fingers for wealth. 

Bobby talked at length about her experience as a female business owner and about life for women in rural Rajasthan.  Women struggle with many equity issues that we take for granted in Canada. 

 

 I'm reading a great book on this topic in case you are interested: May You Be the Mother of a Hundred Sons: A Journey Among the Women of India by Elisabeth Bumiller.

Bobby's family runs a women's co-operative that makes and sells typical Rajasthani patchwork tapestry.  Pictured on the right is her father, Mr. Vyas, a retired lawyer that now runs the co-op store called "Bellissima".

Shankar, tapestry designer and salesman
Opium bag tapestries

We met another shopkeeper who designs his own tapestries.  Shankar (left) shared the stories that the tapestries tell.  The patches come from things like dowry bags, wedding dresses, maharaja dresses and opium bags (all handmade) which he buys from the surrounding villages.  The more valuable pieces are those made of opium bags (bottom left) some of which are quite old and rich with gold thread.  Needless to say, Shankar is also a good salesman as we've shipped a couple of tapestries home.

 

TailorsReady to wear turbansJain temple
Produce dept.
Market, woman, cow

Paradox:  Why are our clothes so loose even though we've been eating so much?  Not to worry - the tailor around the corner took in three pants and a shirt in 30 minutes for $3 (including two cups of chai which we sipped while watching them work). 

Jaisalmer is full of colours.  Centered above are turbans pre-wrapped for your convenience.  Above right is a Jain temple.

 

Right:  Typical market: women, produce, cows.

 

We rented a scooter one day and drove out 20km into the desert to the abandoned city Khuldera (don't worry - empty highways, very safe).  Legend has it that long ago 10,000 people packed their things and disappeared overnight when a tyranical maharaja decreed his entitlement to all the town's women.

 

 

 

 

New Delhi

We spent two brief, harried days in Delhi, mostly running a million small errands.  Delhi is busy and polluted, and we were happy to leave it behind.  This marked the end of 4 weeks in India, in which we managed to see but a tiny fraction of this massive country.

Left: The $2 packing service in New Delhi's post office gets you a handsewn parcel wrapping.  Try getting that at FedEx!

 

Right: Snakecharmers performing in Connaught Place park.  No snakes to be found.

 

 

 

 

 

Railey, Thailand

We arrived in Railey four days ago.  This area is a climbing mecca and we will spend the next two weeks doing just that.  The natural beauty is astounding.  We have to catch a boat home, so for now, just have a look.  More details to follow in a couple of weeks...

Ciao!   sk & ev