Sunday, February 18, 2007

Safe in Jaisalmer

Just in case anyone caught the news of the Indian train bombing today - we were not on it.  We were out in the middle of the desert on camels - but we'll tell you more later when we have a faster connection.



Friday, February 9, 2007

India: Kerala and Agra

 Hello everyone!  This entry covers our first week in India.

Executive Summary:

  • Arrived safely in India, starting in the southern city of Fort Cochin, Kerala.
  • Ate fish caught in a "Chinese fishing net"
  • Took a ferry ride in the backwaters of Kerala.
  • 2 night train journey to Agra to see the Taj Mahal
  • Food is very yummy.  We're getting fat.
  • Next stop: state of Rajasthan. 

 

Fort Cochin, Kerala

Fort Cochin is a port town in the state of Kerala, and was our first stop in India.  Along the waterfront are shore-based fishermen that use "Chinese fishing nets".   This contraption is essentially a very large lever with the net on one end and a series of counter-weights on the other.  The fishermen lower the nets into the water, drawing them up minutes later.   Each cycle nets them a few fish which are sold to the fish mongers a few feet away, who then sell them to the grillers who cook them up for hungry tourists like us.   A complete economic chain!

 

 

Kathakali dancers and drummers
Kathakali dancer

Kathakali dancing is an art unique to the state of Kerala.  Traditional performances are rooted in Hindu mythology and take place at village temples, beginning at sunset and continuing through the night (We opted for an abridged version).  Rather than using speech, a complex system of sign language and facial expressions tell the tale.  Drumming accompaniment completes the drama.  Though the plot was lost on us, we were amazed at how engrossed we were in the performance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indian cities are so full of life.  There has not been one day that we haven't witnessed some fantastically colourful procession with dancing and music.  These are usually religious celebrations beginning at a temple and attracting devotees along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Backwaters of Kerala

Ferry in a backwater canalHouseboatCanoe and house

Starting from the town of Kottayam, we took a ferry to explore the famous backwaters of Kerala. The canal we were travelling is the only source of water for the families living nearby, providing us with an intimate view of everyday life.    There were women dressed in brightly coloured sarees beating clothing against a washing rock set on the stairs going down to the water.  There were men bathing and children splashing about.  There was a fisherman standing on the canal wall catching fish with a long spear. We did not take pictures as we were so close and did not want to invade.  The first picture shows the growth of water plants in some parts of the canal.  We actually heard of families that grow vegetable gardens in the canal!

 

Transportation in India:

Getting into a vehicle in India at first ride is like gambling your life on a game that you don't understand the rules of.  But with an open mind, you begin to realize that there is a method behind the madness.  Roads here are open to any vehicle going any direction, so long as it does not impede traffic.  Should you find yourself behind a slow vehicle, it is your responsibility to pass even if it requires facing oncoming traffic.  If you don't, the vehicle behind you must then pass two obstructions of traffic to get on their way.  Don't worry, should you have to face oncoming traffic, it is usually the responsibility of the vehicle you are passing, and the one you are facing to slow down so that you can pass "safely", even if by a hair.  I'm using the word "vehicle" liberally because in front of you could be an auto rickshaw (three-wheeler in picture), it could be a cycle rickshaw, a donkey pulling a cart full of produce, a slow rural bus (pictured) a superfast intercity bus (same bus, they just drive much faster!)... you get the idea.  Given all the different speeds it all makes sense right? 

Even though we got used to the roads, and began to enjoy them, we opted for the safer option of the train to make our 46 hour journey up to Agra.  The trip was generally quite comfortable, but air conditioned sleeper cars can be really chilly.   As trains often move pretty slowly, it was interesting to watch rural Indian life float by.  It allowed us to briefly peek into places that as tourists, we'd otherwise never see.

 

Taj Mahal

Many have written far more eloquently than we can about how wonderous the Taj Mahal is.  I won't bother trying to add to that, other than to say that I was sure it could not possibly live up to its hype.   But it pretty much does.  It is made completely of white marble, with stunning murals and inscriptions which are not painted on, but instead are composed of inlays of onyx and semi-precious gems and minerals (all the valuable stuff has been pilfered over the years).  The building is completely symetrical when viewed from all four sides.  The Koranic verse in the fourth picture is gradually scaled up in size as it goes up the building, so when read from ground level, the entire inscription from bottom to top to bottom again, appears evenly sized.  An interesting trick of perspective, which the building is full of.  Unfortunately for us, it was pretty overcast on the day we visited.  Apparently, the building twinkles in different colours (due to the coloured stone inlay) when in direct sunlight, particularly at dawn and dusk.

Taj MahalTaj Mahal 3Taj Mahal 2Koranic verse

 

We took on a student guide, Tariq,  who is studying Indian archeology and giving as many tours as he can to pay for his studies and gain experience at the same time.  What he lacked in expertise he made up for in enthusiasm.  Tariq was keen to show us the positioning for "good pictures".  These included where to stand so that you are holding the Taj up by its spire or with your hands up underneath as if you are power lifting the building (both of which we opted out of!).  We did finally indulge him with one photo of us posing as Shah Jehan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal. 

 

We are currently in Jaipur, which we'll write about later on.

 

Take care,

Elisabeth and Shawn